We had been planning a snorkeling trip in an area to the south of us , Bangsaphan, but were scuppered when we realised due to the rainy season, ocean visibility would be poor and therefore a waste of a trip. My dad suggested going north to Kanchanaburi and to the River Kwai. Off we went driving 225km northwest.
We had been up there probably 8 years ago but didn’t want to stay in town this time, preferring something more rural. We used the incredible internet and found ( after reading hundreds of reviews ) the Tree Tara Resort about 45 minutes from Kanchanaburi in Sai Yok District , a very small community mostly made of hotel resorts and is on the railway line and river.
It turned out to be the prettiest resort we have ever stayed on and only $50 per night per bungalow including a very hearty breakfast. The grounds are groomed and it has an infinity pool on the banks of the River Kwai.
The biggest draw for us to this hotel is that there is an elephant rescue across the river and each morning the elephants wander freely down to the river bank to bathe , drink and exercise. We kept this piece of information from the children and used it as an Elf surprise ( yes , we love Elf on the Shelf and packed them with us this trip).
After that astonishing and unforgettable breakfast, we packed our thrilled children into the car and headed to the Erawan National Park about 80km northwest.
We made obligatory stops at the 7/11 for snacks and for gas , stopped four times for the bathroom , and finally arrived after climbing elevation into the Sai Yok National Park area. On our route we saw wild monkeys , herds of cattle and goats being shepherded along the road and signs warning of wild elephants ( none seen since breakfast unfortunately).
The entry fee for the park was 300 Baht ($10) for adults and 200 Baht for children (for foreign visitors). Thailand has an odd policy whereby non Thai nationals pay at least 3 times the fees for entry to museums, palaces, parks, caves ,etc. Not complaining as it is still a reasonable amount , just an observation.
The park was beautifully maintained and organized, with signage and directions in English. We parked our car , changed into our swimming suits and started the easy hike to the first 2 levels of a 7 tiered waterfall. Walking on an easy path under a jungle canopy , listening to birds chatter and the tall bamboo creaking was very pleasant.
The pools had been described as emerald green and that was no lie ! Absolutely breathtaking when we arrived and saw the waterfalls and the pools teaming with fish.
The little one and I stayed at level 2 to play whilst the menfolk climbed up to the highest waterfall level which entailed some steep ladder climbing. My knees would never have made it!
This particular pool was busy with visitors swimming and allowing the fish to nibble at the skin on the soles of their feet , I tried but it was too creepy for me when the big fish came close.
The lads came back and we spent another good while playing and jumping in. Such fun !
On the way out of the park we saw wild boar and their piglets running around the parking lot.
There was a dam close by and we took half an hour to visit. It was very much worth the trip.
The drive home was easy and everyone was happy but exhausted. We ate dinner at the hotel restaurant and there must have been a lost in translation moment because I asked for the children’s meals to have no chilies but were loaded with them. Poor wee boys had eyes streaming with tears after two bites , gulping down glasses of water.
Luckily I brought fixings for PB&J so they didn’t go to bed hungry.
The next morning we had another breakfast with the elephants , still as thrilling, and checked out of the hotel.
Only 3km away from the hotel is the Krasae Cave which is in a cliff by the side of the Burma Railway , also more ominously known as the ‘Death Railway’ due to the Prisoners of War and local people taken as slaves by the Japanese to build it. Tens of thousands of people died during the years taken to build it due to the harsh conditions , the malnourishment, the beatings from their captors and disease. The cave was used as a makeshift shelter.
The Thais have placed a beautiful Buddhist statue inside the cave since and we left flowers and lit incense in memory of those lost.
The view was stunning but as my dad stated , the poor souls working on the railroad with no modern equipment and such awful conditions never got to sit and enjoy it.
We piled back into the car and head to Kanchanaburi, about an hours drive. This is the area of which the 1957 Oscar winning movie Bridge over the River Kwai was based. Unfortunately full of historical inaccuracies but a great film. Sir Alex Guinness and American heartthrob William Holden leading the cast.
This is a link to an article article I enjoyed:
https://www.newscientist.com/article/mg14519705-400-real-bridge-on-the-river-kwai/
The town sits on the site of a POW camp.
We had a wander around the town , crossed the bridge before the train came by and had a delicious local coffee.
The boys stood on the bridge as the train crossed slowly , braver than me !
Our last stop was the saddest of the day. We visited the War Cemetery which has nearly 5000 Australian, British and Dutch soldiers buried there. According to a plaque we read , the Americans took their soldier’s bodies back to the USA. The graves inscriptions showed ages ranging from 19-42 years old. It was heartbreaking reading the headstones and seeing small mementoes that families had left their loved ones. One had a photo attached , another a Jewish one , had a rock left to signify a visitor , some had poppies , some flowers.
The graves that finished me emotionally, were the unknown soldier ones. To think that a man had fought and died under such awful conditions, and his family never knew his end or have a grave to visit, is heart wrenching.
It took us about 3 hours to drive home with a couple of stops for provisions and we took it slower as it was a dark Thai highway.
Our trip was informative, exciting , emotional , educational , and one not to be forgotten anytime soon. Memories have been made.
~Arlene
Seven Months in Siam 